[5]
Mount Altissimo (1589 m)
[Apuan Alps, Tuscany - Italy]
General information
Mt. Altissimo is one of the most famous peaks
in the Apuan Alps. Notwithstanding its name (Altissimo means "the
highest" or "very high"), Mt.Altissimo is not even among
the highest peaks in the range. But as it's the nearest to the plain,
and stands almost isolated, people of Versilia have perceived its height
as truly impressive and named it consequently.
The story goes that Michelangelo himself was fascinated by Mt.Altissimo
and its marble, and often came here. But he could never use this marble
for his sculptures, for the quarries we see today (Cervaiole and Fondone,
among others) were opened much later.
This page describes the ascent to the summit with a short but not to
be underestimated circuit route (Le Gobbie - Uncini - summit - Vaso
Tondo - Fondone - Le Gobbie) starting in the nearby of a remote village
in the Apuan Alps, located between the coast of Tuscany and the city
of Lucca.
Grade: EE
Height to climb: 402 m
Time: 2h from Le Gobbie to the summit via Passo degli
Uncini. Allow 2h for the descent from the summit back to Le Gobbie via
Passo del Vaso Tondo.
Map: Cartina del Parco delle Alpi Apuane, Edizioni
Multigraphic, Firenze 1:25000.
Last climbed: May 2007.
How to get to the starting point
By car
- From the coast of Tuscany or Liguria
Take A12 motorway Genova-Livorno
and exit at Versilia Junction, then follow signs for Castelnuovo Garfagnana.
Past the small villages of Ruosina, Retignano and Levigliani, drive
through the characteristic tunnel called Galleria del Cipollaio then
turn L for the village of Arni at the first junction.
Past Arni and another short tunnel, you'll reach Albergo Le Gobbie (1087
m), a big hotel that stands isolated on the right. Park on the left
of the road.
It is about 40 km in all, but it takes time, as most of the route is
on a narrow and winding road.
You could also reach Le Gobbie following another road from the city
of Massa via Antona and the Passo del Vestito, but you couldn't get
to Le Gobbie from this side in May 2007 because a tunnel was closed
for road works.
- From the city of Lucca
Take the road for Castelnuovo Garfagnana and
then from here follow the signs for Galleria del Cipollaio.
By public transport
Forget about that. Vaibus (www.vaibus.it)
does the bus service from Pietrasanta to Castelnuovo Garfagnana and
this bus stops at Arni, but there are few runs, probably not enough
to allow you to do the Altissimo in one day.
Route
From the car park take the unpaved road going
toward the wood, which soon rejoins the signed path (waymarking is red
and white signs, or just red signs).
After a short and well graded ascent in the shade, the path crosses
an unpaved road (a "marmifera", a road leading to a marble
quarry) going up on the left (picture n.1).
As no signposts or indications are available, you don't know which way
to choose. We continued on the path straight ahead, and discovered that
this path (n.42) leads to the Foce del Frate, and from here another
path takes you to the Passo degli Uncini. On the other hand, the unpaved
road (marmifera) going up to the left leads to the Fondone quarries,
but very soon it forks again and clear signposts point right for Passo
degli Uncini (path n.33).
As you have to reach Passo degli Uncini anyway, both routes are therefore
good. Ours was slightly longer, but we also reached the Foce del Frate
(1327m, 45min from car park), from which you enjoy the first breathtaking
views of the sea and of the Versilia plain.
From Foce del Frate it's just a 15min walk to Passo degli Uncini (1380m,
1h). From here again nice views of Versilia and of the sea.
From the Passo degli Uncini the path (now numbered n.143, but no numbers
on the ground to be seen) becomes a little more demanding. You don't
climb the steep western ridge (picture n.2), you just walk all around
it on the N side, following a narrow path (marked with red, and at times
also with blue signs) that entails just one slightly exposed stretch.
The path then ascends the steep slope on grassy and rocky terrain (picture
n.3). You have to find some handholds for some passages, but there's
nothing difficult here.
Once you've reached the ridge, you follow it up to the summit. As the
ridge is reasonable wide, the going, again, is quite easy and the summit
of Mt.Altissimo (1589m, 2h) is soon gained (picture n.6).
The summit enjoys a sweeping view in all directions. Mt.Altissimo towers
above Versilia and the Tirreno Sea. The far-reaching views extend to
the N to the Gulf of La Spezia, with Portovenere and the small islands
(Palmaria, Tino and Tinello); to the S the densely populated coast of
Versilia with, further S, Lake Massaciuccoli. Just below you the impressive
Cervaiole Quarry and the Passo del Vaso Tondo come into sight. Behind,
to the W, most peaks of Apuan Alps can be easily spotted: Sagro, Cavallo,
Contrario, Tambura, Sella, Fiocca, Sumbra, Pania della Croce, Corchia,
and a tiny portion of Mt.Pisanino, to the left of Mt.Tambura.
On a good day even Corsica and the islands of Tuscany may be seen, along
with the distant Maritime Alps!
The descent follows the SE ridge, on a different and easier path that
goes down to the Passo del Vaso Tondo (1471 m). From the summit the
path starts on your left (E-SE) and it's well marked with splashes of
paint from the very beginning. The route is steep but easier, without
exposure at all and nice views to the south (picture n.7 and n.8).
The pass (Passo del Vaso Tondo) is an obvious saddle where four trails
meet: ours from the summit; a signed path continuing straight on to
the Cervaiole quarries; another path coming from the right (Versilia
side), known as the Tacca Bianca (White Notch), very exposed and dangerous;
a path descending on the left (N), the one we have to take to reach
the quarry (Cave Fondone).
After a few hair-pin bends this path leads you into the middle of the
quarry (picture n.9), a fascinating experience of blinding whiteness.
Follow the unpaved road (marmifera) but be careful not to miss an abrupt
turn-off down on the L, poorly indicated (signs are meant for those
coming up, and are located on a cliff on your right). Please note that
this turn-off is not too far from the area of the quarry, so if you
find yourself walking for too long without seeing a downhill branch
on the left you'll probably have to retrace your steps (which is what
we did).
Once taken this turn-off on the left, you'll find yourself on another
unpaved road (marmifera). A stroll away is another fork: ignore the
R branch for path n.31 (it descends to Arni, but still too far from
the car park) and stick to the main road straight on.
After several ups and downs the marmifera descends till you find the
fork and signposts for Passo degli Uncini (path n.33); minutes later
you reach the confusing junction of this morning (picture n.1: you'll
be coming from the left). At this point you need the L path descending
to the car park of Le Gobbie.
Notes
I'll start with my personal general warnings
on the Apuan Alps: these beautiful but tricky mountains can be very
dangerous in winter because of ice or verglas, and paths generally become
very slippery in the wet. Unless you are experienced and properly equipped,
be careful not to choose the wrong time of the year, or to hike here
in bad weather. Late spring and early autumn are almost always ok, while
summer is not recommended for the unbearable heat.
This said, this route is a little demanding, but not difficult; it's
not too long, and the elevation to gain reasonable anyway. You'll be
rewarded with truly breathtaking views.
In addition, the place evokes strong impressions. I've told you about
Michelangelo; then there is World War II: Mt. Altissimo was on the Gothic
Line, and bunkers and other military ruins are still visible, by
close, scattered and half hidden as they are along the flank of the
mountain.
The quarry experience is another plus point. Here you walk through one,
and it's truly fascinating. I don't know exactly how things work for
marble quarries, except that they are privately owned, that there are
people working there on weekdays, and that the hikers' presence is tolerated
if they stick to the rules and follow what signs tell them to do, most
times for their own safety. Some marble quarries in this area around
Carrara are open for a thorough visit, but I do not think these are.
ˆ
To the top
of the page [t]
Go to the English Home Page
[5]:
Go to the Archivio Gite
[1]: (full list of routes)
